Nitrous is a way to gain more power with the press of a button. Unfortunately it has changed to something that all ricers want to have to win cups at shows. However Nitrous is still a good way to gain power. Therefore we decided to put all info together.
Injecting nitrous into a standard engine is not risky provided you are sensible, get greedy or use it badly and you will kill it. You dont have to "build" you engine but the stronger it is the more you could inject. There are people on here injecting 100 shot on standard engines.
The only mods I would consider before adding a nitrous kit is beefing up you ignition as this is the only area I have personally had problems.
I compiled a word document which consisted of all the useful bits on websites I visited before getting my kit. Its mostly just cut and pasted and I have tidied it up a bit from the 32 pages it was originally and it could probably do with some more but heres how it appears in the files section on the Yahoo group, hopefully it will help you:
"Now before we wade in too deep, nitrous is not a fuel. Neither is it called nitro (that is a fuel and a very volatile one) , NOS (this is the trademark of Nitrous Oxide Systems), NAWZ (thank you “The Fast And The Furious”) or NO2 (Nitrogen Dioxide (I think!)). If you want to avoid looking an arse, don't call it any of these, OK?
How Does Nitrous Oxide Work?
There are three points. First, nitrous oxide is comprised of 2 parts nitrogen and one part oxygen (36% oxygen by weight). When the nitrous oxide is heated to approximately 572F (on compression stroke), it breaks down and releases extra oxygen; however, it is not this oxygen alone which creates additional power, but the ability of this oxygen to burn more fuel. By burning more fuel, higher cylinder pressures are created and this is where most of the additional power is realised.
Secondly, as pressurised nitrous oxide is injected into the intake manifold, it changes from a liquid to a gas (boils). This boiling affect reduces the temperature of the nitrous to a minus .127 Degrees F. This "cooling affect" in turn significantly reduces intake charge temperatures by approximately 60-75 Degrees F. This also helps create additional power. A general rule of thumb: For every 10 Degrees F. reduction in intake charge temperature, a 1% increase in power will be realised. Example: A 350 HP engine with an intake temperature drop of 70 Degrees F, would gain approximately 25 HP on the cooling affect alone.
The third point, the nitrogen that was also released during the compression stroke performs an important role. Nitrogen acts to "buff or dampen" the increased cylinder pressures leading to a controlled combustion process.
Why N20?
Nitrous oxide injection has become a very popular option for today's performance enthusiast for several reasons:
N20 offers you more performance per dollar spent, than any other performance modification.
N20 installations are relatively easy to accomplish.
Since N20 is used only when needed, it offers you the advantages of complete drivability and normal gas mileage while not "on the button."
Systems available for virtually any power need from 5 HP to over 500 extra HP.
One of the few performance options available for today's computer controlled, fuel injected engines.
Systems can easily be removed or transferred to another vehicle.
Q: Will N20 affect engine reliability?
Probably.......... One day its inevitable so just accept it!
Q: Can I simply bolt a N20 kit onto my stock engine?
A: Yes, There are N20 systems for virtually any stock engine application. The key is to choose the correct kit for a given application; i.e., 4 cylinder. engines normally allow an extra 40-60 HP, 6 cylinder. engines usually work great between 75-100 extra HP, small block V8's (302/350/400cid) can typically accept up to 140 extra HP, and big block V8's (427/454) might accept from 125-200 extra HP. These suggested ranges provide maximum reliability from most stock engines using cast pistons and cast crank with few or no engine modifications.
Q: What are some of the general rules for even higher H.P. gains?
A: Generally, forged aluminium pistons are one of the best modifications you can make. Retard ignition timing by 4-8 degrees. In many cases a higher flowing fuel pump may be necessary. Higher octane (100+) racing type fuel may be required as well as spark plugs 1 to 2 heat ranges colder than normal with gaps closed to .025"-.030".
Q: How much performance improvement can I expect with a nitrous system?
A: Loads.....
Q: How long will the bottle last?
A: Approximately 10bhp per lb per min. So a 2.25 lb bottle on a bike will give just less than a minute with a 25bhp increase.
Q: When is the best time to use nitrous?
A: At wide open throttle only. Due to the tremendous amount of increased torque, you will generally find best results, traction permitting, at early activation.
Q: Will I have to rejet my carburettor on my car when adding nitrous?
A: No! The N20 system is independent of your carburettor and injects its own mixture of fuel and nitrous.
Q: Is nitrous oxide flammable?
A: No. Nitrous oxide by itself is non-flammable. However, the oxygen present in nitrous oxide causes combustion of fuel to take place more rapidly.
Q: Will nitrous oxide cause detonation?
A: Not directly. Detonation is the result of too little fuel present during combustion (lean) or too low of an octane of fuel. Too much ignition advance also causes detonation.
Q: Is there any performance increase in using medical grade nitrous oxide?
A: None! All the same.
Q: Is it a good idea to use an aftermarket computer chip in conjunction with a Nitrous System?
A: Only if the chip had been designed specifically for use with nitrous oxide. Most aftermarket chips use more aggressive timing advance curves to create more power. This can lead to potential detonation. You may wish to check with the manufacturer of the chip before using it. The top manufacturers, such as APE & Superchips do make special chips for use with nitrous.
Q: Does nitrous oxide raise cylinder pressures and temperatures?
A: Yes. Due to the ability to burn more fuel, this is exactly why nitrous makes so much power.
Q: Are there any benefits to chilling the nitrous bottle?
A: No. Chilling the bottle lowers the pressure dramatically and will also lower the flow rate of the nitrous causing a fuel rich condition and reducing power. On cold evenings you might run on the rich side. For optimal running conditions, keep bottle pressure at approximately 800-900 psi.
Q: Are there benefits to using nitrous with turbo or supercharger applications?
A: Absolutely! In turbo applications, turbo lag is completely eliminated with the addition of a nitrous system. In addition, both turbo and superchargers compress the incoming air, thus heating it. With the injection of nitrous, a tremendous intercooling effect reduces intake charge temperatures by 75 degrees or more. Boost is usually increased as well; adding to even more power.
Q: Will the use of nitrous oxide affect the catalytic converter?
A: No. The increase in oxygen present in the exhaust may actually increase the efficiency of the converter. Since the use of nitrous is normally limited to 10-20 seconds of continuous use, there usually are no appreciable effects. Temperatures are typically well within acceptable standards.
Q: Can high compression engines utilise nitrous oxide?
A: Absolutely. High or low compression ratios can work quite suitably with nitrous oxide provided the proper balance of nitrous and fuel enrichment is maintained. N2O kits are used in applications from relatively low compression stock type motors to Pro-Modifieds, which often exceed 15 to 1. Generally, the higher the compression ratio, the more ignition retard, as well as higher octane fuel, is required. For more specific information talk to a qualified technicians.
Q: What type of cam is best suited for use with nitrous oxide?
A: Generally, cams that have more exhaust overlap and duration. However, it is best to choose a cam tailored to normal use (when nitrous is not activated) since 99% of most vehicle operation is not at full throttle. There are special cam grinds available for nitrous competition which have more aggressive exhaust profiles etc. Since cam selection depends largely on vehicle weight, gearing, etc., it is best to stick to cam manufacturer's recommendations for your particular goal.
Q: What type of nitrous system is better; a plate injection system or a direct port injection system? (Car)
A: The advantages of a plate system are ease of installation and removal, ability to transfer easily to another vehicle, ability to change jetting combinations quickly, and, in most cases, provide you with all the extra HP you will ever need (75 to 350 more HP). In some cases, such as in-line type engines with long runners, a direct port type system is advisable for maximising distribution.
Q: Should I modify my fuel system to use nitrous oxide?
A: Most stock fuel pumps will work adequately for smaller nitrous applications. It is important to check to see if your pump can flow enough fuel to your existing fuel system (whether carburettor or fuel injected), as well as being able to supply the additional fuel required by the nitrous kit under full throttle conditions. It may be a good idea to dedicate a separate fuel pump to the nitrous kit.
Q: What are the advantages of using nitrous compared to other performance options?
A: The cost of many other performance options can put you in the poorhouse. Dollar for dollar, you can't buy more performance with less money than nitrous. With a nitrous system, performance and reliability can be had for a much more reasonable price while retaining the advantages of a stock engine during normal driving. And, nitrous offers tremendous gains in torque without having to rev the engine to excessive rpm's. These factors help your engine last longer than many other methods of boosting horsepower.
Q: How do I know how much nitrous is left in the bottle?
A: The most reliable way is to weigh the bottle to determine how many pounds remain. When a bottle is near empty (about 20% or less nitrous remaining) a surging effect is normally felt.
Q: What is the function of the blow-off safety valve on the bottle?
A: It is very important not to overfill a bottle; i.e., a 10 lb. capacity bottle should not be filled with more than 10 lb. of nitrous oxide by weight. Over-filling and/or too much heat can cause excessive bottle pressures forcing the safety seal to blow and releasing all the contents out of the bottle.
Q: Will I have to change my ignition system?
A: Most late model ignition systems are well suited for nitrous applications. In some higher HP cases, it may be advisable to look into a high quality high output ignition system.
Some people think that you flip a switch and then the nitrous (and extra fuel) is flowing and you just hold on for dear life. That is not how a modern nitrous system works (or should work). The system actually contains three controls, the first one is that you have to open the valve on the bottle (usually in the morning and then you close it at night), the second one is an arming switch mounted somewhere in the cockpit. Unless that switch is on, nothing will happen under any condition. The third switch is usually mounted under the hood, next to the throttle. It's a small micro switch that closes (meaning it's on) when you push the gas pedal to the floor, it only activates when you have wide open throttle (WOT). When all these three controls/switches are "on", the nitrous and the extra fuel is injected into the engine. This makes a modern nitrous system very safe, if something isn't right (engine doesn't sound right, tires are spinning too much, the cops are approaching, ...), just release the gas pedal as you normally would and the nitrous will instantly be turned off. It can't be much simpler than that, every condition except WOT and the car will behave as if it has never even heard of nitrous, but push the load pedal to the floor and you'll have the ride of your life!
Q: Can I abuse the engine as much as I want to?
A: No you can't. There are certain rules you have to follow if you want to live a happy nitrous life. The first thing you have to think about is, NEVER EVER let it run lean. A lean condition (meaning that there is not enough fuel for the available oxygen) is very destructive to an engine and especially when you're running nitrous. The temperature in the cylinder gets very high and the fuel detonates instead of burns. The probable outcome is melted pistons, burnt valves, blown head gasket, cracked head or other unpleasant things.
The next thing is, don't try to force your engine to do things it doesn't like. If you have a turbo or a supercharger or even nothing at all, it will not make much power at low rpms. Put in 5'th gear and slow down to 1000 rpm, now push the pedal to the metal and the car will start to accelerate, very slowly, because the engine doesn't produce much hp at that speed. Nitrous is completely different, as soon as you hit WOT (with the system armed) it will inject a fixed amount of nitrous and fuel. It doesn't care if the engine is at 1000 rpm or 7000 rpm, it will do the same thing. If you have the nitrous system set for 50 hp, it will add 50 hp even if the engine is at 1000 rpm. Since the system injects a fixed amount regardless of rpm, the lower the rpm, the more nitrous will burn per power stroke. At low rpm's that creates a very high cylinder pressure and can cause problems. The solution is simple, don't engage the nitrous (i.e. no WOT) at too low rpm.
Q: How low is too low?
A: It depends on how much hp the nitrous is set for and which gear you are in. If you have a 50 hp setting, don't engage under 2000 rpm in 1-3 gear and not under 2500 rpm in 4-5. For a 75 hp setting increase each with 500 rpm.
This sounds dangerous!
No it isn't if you keep it in mind. If you feel that you want some extra security, it's easy to put in an rpm-switch that will block the nitrous until a certain rpm is reached.
The third thing you should think about is, don't hit it too long. It's the same thing as with turbo or supercharger systems, when they produce this wonderful power they also generate a lot of heat. Don't push the pedal to the floor and keep it there until you reach the rev limiter in 5'th. Long hard pulls generate a lot of heat and pistons and valves are sensitive to that. If you want to see how fast it goes, push it 99% (just before the nitrous engages) until it doesn't go any faster and then engage the nitrous.
If you are tinkering under the hood, keep the nitrous unarmed. If the engine is running and you accidentally engage it, see above. If the engine isn't running and you accidentally engage it, don't even think about starting it, even if you "hit" just for a millisecond. Unscrew your spark plugs and crank it for a long time.
Q: How do I prevent it from running lean?
A: Either you have to run the nitrous on the safe side (i.e. very rich air/fuel mixture) or you have to get some gauges. A nitrous pressure gauge mounted on the bottle is a must because you need to see when it's time to refill. That gauge is also a good monitor for how lean you are going to be when you engage the system. If the car has been sitting in the hot California sun for several hours, the pressure can be 1200 psi (optimal pressure is 950 psi). If you then go out and "hit" it, you'll probably be running lean. That doesn't mean that you can't engage it, it just mean that you should do short bursts (a few seconds) and pay close attention to how the engine sounds. A really good investment is an oxygen sensor monitor. It connects to your engines oxygen sensor and will show you directly if you're running lean or rich or just right.
Q: Do I need anything more than the basic kit?
A: Not really, but there are two things that I recommend. The first one is a bottle heater. It's a thermostat controlled heating element that you wrap around the nitrous bottle, it's very easy to install and unless you live in a place where the temperature is *always* above 85 F, it'll be the best investment you'll ever make. The air/fuel ratio is dependant on the nitrous pressure and the nitrous pressure is dependant on the bottle temperature. With a bottle heater to keep your pressure constant, you'll be a million times more happy with the system than without one.
The next thing is an oxygen sensor monitor, it'll give you piece of mind and you'll learn much more about how the system actually works.
Different types of systems.
You can divide nitrous systems up in categories based on different criteria:
If you look at how the fuel is added, you have dry and wet systems.
If you look at how the nitrous is injected, you have single injector or direct port systems.
If you look at the way the nitrous is controlled, you have single stage, multiple stage and progressive systems.
Dry manifold.
This means that the nitrous is injected by itself into the intake manifold. Fuel is added by increasing the amount that the normal fuel injectors are supplying. This can be done by either instructing the ECU to add more fuel or by increasing the fuel pressure like most turbo and supercharger kits do. Also of interest is that a dry system that adds fuel by increasing the fuel pressure is incompatible with turbo/supercharger systems that uses a rising rate pressure regulator. A dry system can use either a single central injector or a direct port configuration. A direct port dry system with the proper ECU support would be a really good solution.
Wet manifold.
This means that you inject both nitrous and fuel separate from the normal fuel delivery. Usually the fuel and the nitrous is injected through a combined injector (usually called a fogger but this is a trade name of Nitrous Oxide Systems or NOS).
Single injector.
This actually refers to a single point of injection. It can be a fogger or an injection plate. Injection plates are mostly used on V8's but they do exist for other engines also. For most types of engine the most common is to use a single fogger somewhere before the throttle body. The problem with single point injection is that the distribution of nitrous (and fuel if it's a wet system) between the cylinders can be less than perfect. In a wet system that means that the distribution of power between the cylinders will be uneven. In a dry system it means that the air/fuel ration will vary between them and that is really bad (can lead to burned valves).
The problem with wet single injector systems is that you can get puddeling of fuel in the intake system (sometimes called fuel drop). This seems to be more of a problem for V8's and not so much for small 4-cyl engines.
Direct port
With a direct port system you put (at least) one injector for each cylinder, that way there is no mixing between the cylinders and perfect distribution and air/fuel ratio can be archived. One thing to remember is that for a small engine there is a limit to how low you can go in power with a wet direct port system. If you feed the injectors directly from the stock fuel line it's about 75 hp and if you put in a pressure regulator you can get it down to 50 hp. A direct port system is also more complicated to install since it requires that the intake manifold be removed for drilling and tapping.
Single stage
A single stage system means that there is only on or off and that you inject the same amount of nitrous (and fuel if it's a wet system) all the time regardless of rpm or load. This makes for a very easy system, both to install and to understand. Single stage systems are also the most common. The problem with this kind of system is that the low end rpms limits how much nitrous you can inject and the engine will be starved (well, at least not showing its full potential) at the higher rpms.
Multi-stage
You put several "normal" nitrous stages together and trigger them at different times. This type is most common in drag racing where you launch on the first stage and then enable more stages as speed increases. This is usually controlled by timers. The advantage over a single stage system is obvious, you can start to inject a safe 50 hp at 2000 rpm and then add a healthy 50 more at 4000 rpm for example. The down side is cost and complexity.
Progressive controllers
Here you start out with a "normal" nitrous kit (usually a port injection) and add an electronic controller. The controller opens and closes the solenoids about 20-30 times/second. By varying the duty cycle, it controls the amount of nitrous and fuel that is injected. There are several brands and types of this controller. Some modulate depending on the rpms, some on throttle position, some on time and the really advanced have a combination of these.
Bottle heaters
The purpose of a bottle heater is to keep the nitrous bottle warm, duh!
The pressure of the nitrous (and therefore the air/fuel ratio) is depending on the temperature of the nitrous. The trick to keeping the air/fuel ratio consistent (which is the key to making good power and staying out of trouble) is to keep the temperature consistent. The biggest weakness of a nitrous system is the temperature dependence and a bottle heater goes a long way of solving that. It isn't perfect since it doesn't cool the bottle when it gets too hot, but it's much better than nothing.
Nitrous Express have a bottle heater that regulates the heat based on the nitrous pressure. The NOS guys said that there are several problems with that 1) The Nitrous Express kit measures the pressure after the bottle valve, if you close the bottle valve and forget the heater on, BOOM! 2) When you start heating the bottle, the pressure will rise quickly without the whole bottle being warm. When you then open the solenoid the excess pressure blows out and you are left with the pressure that your cold nitrous can produce. The NOS bottle heater measures the temperature of the bottle instead. The kit they had before wasn't any good because 1) The heater element was too small, it sometimes took 20 minutes to get a bottle up to 84 from 60 F. 2) The temp sensor wasn't any good, it would sometimes not record the temperature of the bottle correctly making the heater heat it too much. A new one that solves these issues is already designed but at the time of this writing there was problems with a sub-contractor.
If you have a bottle heater, it's a good thing to have a bottle blanket. It keeps the bottle temperature more stable and makes life a little easier for the heater.
Purge valve
A purge valve can be use for two things. When the system is pressurised (valves open but the solenoid is closed), the nitrous in the line closest to the solenoid starts to turn in to gas instead of liquid. The primary usage of a purge valve is to let that gas out so you'll have liquid at the solenoid. The other thing you can use it for is to let the pressure out of the system after you've closed the valves, thereby releasing the pressure on the solenoid and extending its life.
Nitrous Oxide Myths
I'm not using nitrous, that stuff will blow up my engine!
While nitrous oxide has the potential to cause engine damage, it can provide years of safe and effective horsepower gains if installed and operated properly. Obviously, an expert on how to utilise nitrous oxide should be consulted before a kit is installed.
How can my stock engine deal with the additional horsepower?
There are no guarantees when increasing engine performance above the manufacturer's specifications. However, most manufacturers have a "safety margin" designed into their engines that allows for increases in horsepower with no detrimental effects. Also, because the use of nitrous oxide is driver controlled, its exposure to your engine occurs when desired only, allowing the engine to operate under normal conditions most of the time.
Is it legal to use nitrous oxide?
Yes, but be careful where and when you use it. Obviously if you use it every time you leave the traffic lights you will attract attention, and will be stopped. I know its called laughing gas, but the smile will be wiped off your face if you use it in the wrong places.
What if the bottle blows up?!
Nitrous oxide itself is not flammable. It does contain a high amount of oxygen which, when combined with fuel, causes a more rapid and powerful explosion.
This column is not meant to endorse the use of nitrous oxide because its advantages will likely appeal to a narrow range of automotive enthusiasts. The concept of regularly filling a container with nitrous oxide just to get extra bursts of speed goes beyond the average driver's tolerance level. At the same time, nitrous oxide should not be dismissed as a risky or primitive performance modification used by speed freaks (certain characters from "The Road Warrior" movie not withstanding). Its cost, ease of use, and real-world performance gains make it a viable option to fulfil your need for speed
Ever stopped to think about what you're actually doing when you add a bigger carb, port a cylinder head, add bigger valves, a larger lift and duration cam, or indeed a turbo or supercharger? Quite simply, you're trying to improve the flow of air into the combustion chambers.
And the reason you do this is? The more air you get in, the more you can mix it with fuel. And the more fuel you burn, the more power you make - it's as simple as that.
But the more highly-tuned your motor is, the more of an inconvenience it is to live with. Let's face it, a cam that comes in at 4500 revs means you're going to be constantly slipping the clutch trying to keep engine speeds up. In traffic, that's a complete pain.
But there is a way of introducing monstrous levels of oxygen so you can burn more fuel, instantly And it's called nitrous oxide.
Nitrous Oxide Tips.
Always relieve the pressure on the nitrous solenoid. Don't leave the bottle valve open when not using the nitrous. Clear the nitrous from the line and then reseal it to prevent dirt from entering.
If it's in your budget, use a purge valve. This will insure that you get the proper mix of nitrous and fuel the first instant you hit the activate button When the nitrous comes out of the bottle and sits in the line it changes state from liquid to gas and is not very effective. If you don't use a purge it won't hurt the motor because it's a fuel-rich condition; but it will hurt performance. I notice quite a difference in 60ft. times with and without purging.
Rebuild the solenoids every two years. The rebuild kit for each solenoid is about $40 and will insure proper operation. It's a simple job and requires no special tools. (Believe me you don't want to hit the button and find out that your fuel solenoid isn't working.)
The amount of nitrous injected into your motor is controlled by two things, the jet you select and the pressure in the bottle. Ideal bottle pressure is 900psi. The temperature of the bottle effects the pressure inside. Heat makes it rise and cold makes it fall. I have seen people take a propane torch and heat the bottle. NEVER EVER do this. If you see someone doing this RUN, don't walk, in the other direction. The bottle can explode causing serious injury. If you race in cold temperatures, there is an electric heater available.
There are three types of nitrous oxide available. First is the medical grade, like dentists us, 2nd is the industrial grade, which is the same as the medical grade but it's not purified, and 3rd is called Nytrous+, which has sulphur added, preventing anyone from inhaling it for kicks (and possible brain damage). I have tried all three types and there is no difference in ET among them. However, when using industrial grade or Nytrous+, make sure to use a nitrous filter because they do contain small foreign particles, which can clog your nitrous solenoid.
Q: What are some of the general rules for even higher H.P. gains?
A: Generally, forged aluminium pistons are one of the best modifications you can make. Retard ignition timing by 4-8 degrees (1 to 11/2 degrees timing retard per 50 H.P. gain). In many cases a higher flowing fuel pump may be necessary. Higher octane (100+) racing type fuel may be required as well as spark plugs 1 to 2 heat ranges colder than normal with gaps closed to .025"-.030". For gains over 250 H.P., other important modifications could be necessary in addition to those mentioned above. These special modifications may include a forged crankshaft, a high quality race type connecting rod, a high output fuel pump dedicated to feeding the additional fuel demands of the nitrous system, and a racing fuel with high specific gravity and an octane rating of 110 or more.
Q: How much performance improvement can I expect with a nitrous system?
A: For many applications an improvement from 1 to 3 full seconds and 10 to 15 MPH in the quarter mile can be expected. Factors such as engine size, tires, jetting, gearing, etc. will effect the final results.
Q: How long can I hold the nitrous button down?
A: It is possible to hold the button down until the bottle is empty. However 15 continuous seconds at a time, or less, is recommend.
Q: When is the best time to use nitrous?
A: At wide open throttle only (unless a progressive controller is used). Due to the tremendous amount of increased torque, you will generally find best results, traction permitting, at early activation. Nitrous can be safely applied above 2,500 RPM under full throttle conditions.
Q: Is nitrous oxide flammable?
A: No. Nitrous oxide by itself is non-flammable. However, the oxygen present in nitrous oxide causes combustion of fuel to take place more rapidly.
Q: Will nitrous oxide cause detonation?
A: Not directly. Detonation is the result of too little fuel present during combustion (lean) or too low of an octane of fuel. Too much ignition advance also causes detonation. In general, most of our kits engineered for stock type engines will work well with premium type fuels and minimal decreases of ignition timing. In racing applications where higher compression ratios are used, resulting in higher cylinder pressures, a higher fuel octane must be used as well as more ignition retard.
Q: Is there any performance increase in using medical grade nitrous oxide?
A: None! NOS recommends and sells only the automotive grade, called Ny-trous Plus. Ny-trous Plus contains a minimal amount of sulphur dioxide (100 ppm) as a deterrent to substance abuse. The additive does not affect performance.
Q: Is it a good idea to use an aftermarket computer chip in conjunction with an NOS System?
A: Only if the chip had been designed specifically for use with nitrous oxide. Most aftermarket chips use more aggressive timing advance curves to create more power. This can lead to potential detonation. You may wish to check with the manufacturer of the chip before using it. The top manufacturers, such as Hypertech do make special chips for use with nitrous.
Q: Does nitrous oxide raise cylinder pressures and temperatures?
A: Yes. Due to the ability to burn more fuel, this is exactly why nitrous makes so much power.
Q: What effect does nitrous have on an engine with considerable miles on it?
A: This depends largely on the actual condition of the engine components. Any performance modification to an engine that is worn out or poorly tuned will have detrimental effects. However, an engine in good condition, with good ring and head gasket sealing, should be able to use nitrous without any abnormal wear.
Q: Will the use of nitrous oxide affect the catalytic converter?
A: No. The increase in oxygen present in the exhaust may actually increase the efficiency of the converter. Since the use of nitrous is normally limited to 10-20 seconds of continuous use, there usually are no appreciable effects. Temperatures are typically well within acceptable standards.
Q: Will the percentage of performance increase be the same in a highly modified engine compared to a stock engine when using the same NOS kit and jetting?
A: Not really. In most cases the percentage of increase is greater from a stock engine because it is not as efficient as the modified engine in a normal non-nitrous mode. However, since the effects of nitrous oxide magnify the output of any engine, the total power output will be much higher in the modified engine.
Highpower FAQ
Q1) The most common question we are asked is "Will nitrous oxide DESTROY my engine"
A1) My short answer is, would I still be in business if I were RESPONSIBLE for DESTROYING ALL or ANY of my customer's engines? Obviously NOT, and that is why for over 10 years we have experimented with N20 injection on many types of engines and pushed them further than any customer would want, to ensure that this remains true. The results are that despite being subjected to extended periods of VERY high power increases all but or 2 survived without problems of any kind. My conclusion is that as long as OUR nitrous system is fitted and used correctly, to an engine in good condition without any weaknesses in the original design, then there is no reason to worry about premature engine wear or failure.
Q2) How long does a cylinder of nitrous oxide last?
A2) Just like your petrol tank it is not long enough between refills, especially when you first fit the kit and play with it as you would a new toy. However once you get past this playful stage you begin to realise what a useful boost nitrous is, and only use it when necessary, then the bottle seems to last forever before needing a fill. It is impossible to put a time to how long a bottle will lasts, as we offer three different sizes of cylinder, the biggest lasting five times as long as the smallest. Besides the size of the nitrous bottle, the size of the nitrous jet (which determines the amount of power increase, and consequently the rate of nitrous usage) can he changed from as little as 5 bhp to as much as 100 bhp, obviously the bigger jet uses more nitrous more rapidly, to be exact 20 times more rapidly. With all this in mind, a big bottle with a small jet will last the longest (approx. 60 mins of continuous use), whilst a small bottle with the biggest jet will last the shortest time (approx. 30 secs of continuous use). To add extra confusion to the calculations, if you fit a POWAMAX DIGITAL progressive nitrous delivery system, you the user can alter the power and consequently the consumption of the nitrous, however the good news is that a POWAMAX DIGITAL makes the nitrous last approx. twice as long as a normal nitrous system. In real life some customers use a bottle a day, some use a bottle a week and some take more than 2 weeks to empty the bottle, it is all down to you, as you control how often you hit the button. It is not like a propane conversion where you use the gas all the time, it is only a BOOSTER to you normal engine power and consequently you can run the car as normal if you don't want to use the gas too quickly, or when the bottle is empty.)
Q3) From where can I buy nitrous oxide refills?
A3) We or our agents (in some areas) can supply your nitrous oxide needs, but you may want to rent a large refill cylinder from your local branch of LYNDE gas, who can be found by contacting the Head office 0121 500 1000. If you have any problems with LYNDE gas you might try your local branch of Air Products or B.O.C. but don't tell them it is for automotive use, as in some areas they seem to think anyone who is crazy enough to use it on a vehicle is unsafe to sell it to. If you get a supply this way we can supply you a refill pipe/adapter cheaper than anyone else. Your final option is a local tuning shop who may stock gas.
Q4) Is a fitting service available?
A4) "HIGHPOWER" systems come complete with full fitting instructions and we offer the most comprehensive after sales service, however if you want the very best from your system then it would be wise to have either ourselves or our agents fit and fine tune the system for you, or at least carry out final checks before you use your system. Charges for our fitting service vary for each vehicle, but is usually a minimum of £150, but can run to £300 for the basic kit ONLY which includes DYNO or COMPUTER testing of your vehicle.
Q5) How much does nitrous oxide cost to buy?
A5) The average cost is in the region of £3.50/lb, but it does depend on your supplier and the quantity you purchase. Buying direct from a manufacturer can reduce the cost to about £2.50/lb. Another point worth keeping in mind whilst considering running costs, is that compared with alternative power (e.g. cams etc.), a nitrous vehicle will make considerable petrol savings when running "off gas".
Q6) Is the use of nitrous oxide "road legal"?
A6) There is no law that prohibits the use of N20 injection on road vehicles. My own cars are used on the road, and the local police are aware of my use of nitrous systems, and they confirm that they know of no law that I could be breaking. However you may need to inform your insurance company, depending on the type and wording of the policy. The same applies to ALL types of tuning, these should also be reported to your insurers.
Q7) How is the power increase determined?
A7) The power rating is calculated from the flow rate of nitrous oxide liquid through the nitrous jet, and is therefore only theoretical. The actual power increase achieved by a particular engine depends on: 1) the richness of the fuel to Nitrous ratio, e.g. Too rich, reduces the power output, ii) the engines particular characteristics, so different engines will produce different power increases from a specific amount of nitrous oxide (e.g. 1), a V6 Ford had 25 bhp injected but measured 70 bhp extra at the crank, (e.g. ii), a Shogun V6 had 25 bhp injected, but only measured a 16 bhp increase at the wheels).
Q8 ) How much power increase cam I achieve?
A8 ) HIGHPOWER systems have achieved as much as 500% power increases on some engines, without engine failure. This figure may not be attainable on all engines, but it does give you some idea of the potential of our systems. All "HIGHPOWER" systems are sent out with an initial jetting of 25 BHP in order to reduce gas wastage when carrying out initial testing, and to avoid any engine problems that maybe caused by incorrect installation. Once you have con-firmed that the system is functioning correctly on your vehicle, you can request lager jets (£10/pr I increase) which are available in up to 25 BHP increments, so you can look forward to more & more POWER from HIGHPOWER systems.
Q9) Do I need to fit any improved parts to my engine before I buy a HIGHPOWER nitrous system?
A9) NO! (not normally), but any parts that would improve a standard engine, will also be of benefit to a nitrous burner. The previous statement holds true only up to a certain power output, with each engine having its own limits on each component. The first parts to show signs of weakness when using nitrous are usually the clutch (on motorcycles which may slip at 25bhp+), then the ignition components (on motorcycles & cars which may not be powerful enough at 25bhp+). If the power is increased above 50 bhp it is possible for a piston failure to occur, but this can be prevented by retarding the timing to allow for the quicker burn rate when using nitrous oxide. If our advice is followed this should never happen if the timing is corrected when nitrous is used. Most standard engine parts will handle more power than the driver, but if you want MAXIMUM POWER then it is best to improve the aforementioned parts first. It is not in our interests to have any engine components fail, so you can rely on HIGHPOWER systems to give you good advise for maximum reliability.
Q10) Will nitrous work on turbo I supercharged, tuned or 2 stroke engines?
A10)YES! it will, as nitrous does not know what kind of engine it is entering, and on these types of engines the power output on nitrous almost always exceeds the theoretical power input calculated on the amount of nitrous used.
Q11) Does nitrous work on Diesel Turbo engines?
A11) YES! and with much better results for a given power increase than a petrol engine, as a diesel does not have an ignition system like a petrol engine and consequently the power output is not reduced by a poor condition ignition system, also the timing of the ignition sequence is not as crucial on a diesel which not only helps the power output, but also reliability. With a petrol engine detonation can soon become a limiting factor to the power output, but as tar as I can tell this is not the case on a diesel as they actually run on detonation and as a consequence are built stronger which is another reliability bonus. The biggest advantage of a diesel over a petrol engine is the diesels lack of acceleration ability, but with N20 injection this shortcoming is dis-proportionately improved. Cost is another area where a diesel has an advantage over an equivalent petrol engine, as the basic N20 systems for a diesel does not need a filet control system as a petrol engine does, which reduces the cost of a similar diesel system by approx. £100. The only limiting factor is how much fuel the engine wastes, and how much extra can be added.
Q12) How do I operate I use a nitrous system?
A12) Since we tailor make our systems to our customers requirements we can accommodate any arrangement you require, but we suggest that an arming switch (supplied with the system) be mounted within easy reach of the driver I rider, with a throttle operated micro switch (supplied with the system) mounted in such a way that it will only operate at full throttle. With the arming twitch OFF, the micro switch operating at full throttle will not fire off the system, however when the arming twitch is ON, applying full throttle will activate the N20 system, and when the throttle is released it will switch the system OFF. This way you do not need to make any unusual actions to operate the system, and you will find it just like driving a more powerful vehicle or like driving an automatic car with kick down
Highpower Technical info
Before we get too technical lets get basic by starting with the principles of something most people understand, the carburettor (any carb will do). The job of this device as I'm sure you know is to mix fuel (petrol) with the correct amount of air (oxygen) and deliver it to the engine. A Nitrous system does exactly the same thing and if you keep this in mind when tuning a system, you will have made a quantum leap towards achieving the best possible result. In practical terms this is achieved as follows;
I) a control solenoid is fed with fuel from the fuel tank either by gravity or via a fuel pump,
ii) the outlet of the control solenoid is connected to the injector/s ( via a distribution block if required ) which are fitted into the inlet tract,
iii) as with carbs the metering of the amount of fuel fed to the engine is controlled by jets, either in the injectors or in advanced systems at the outlet of the solenoid (bigger jets deliver more fuel to the engine),
iv) in place of the air which the carb meters in with the fuel, a Nitrous system meters N2O to mix with the fuel to provide the oxygen required to burn off the extra fuel supplied when the fuel control solenoid is operated. The hardware to achieve this is basically the same as the fuel system (solenoid, distribution block, and injectors), but upgraded to deal with the much higher pressure of N20 which can be up to 1,200 psi.
v) the injectors for the N2O can be built into the same body as the fuel injector, or they can be supplied separately (separate injectors are usually easier to install and give comparable results to combined injectors),
vi) the main advantage and difference between a carb and a Nitrous system is that the oxygen flow (in the form of N2O) is also controlled by metering jets, so unlike a carburettor the supply of oxygen can be adjusted quickly and accurately to suit the engines requirements,
vii) altering EITHER the fuel or N2O jet ONLY has the same effect as changing the jets in a carburettor, and in this respect a Nitrous system can be tuned like a very simple carb to achieve an optimum oxygen - fuel mixture for your engine,
viii) changing both Nitrous and fuel jets at the same time has the effect of raising or lowering the overall power output of the N2O system (assuming a correct fuel to nitrous ratio has been established as described above).
ix) in a nut shell the fuel and N2O control solenoids when activated by a switch allow fuel and N2O to flow to the injectors and into the engine, where the N2O splits into nitrogen (which suppresses detonation) and oxygen which supports the combustion of the extra fuel and that's it MORE POWER at the touch of a button (in most cases that's it, but occasionally it isn't that simple as we will see later). So there you have it, the mystical N2O system is just a simple carb which packs the potential of a big punch, and N2O is not the magical FUEL that single handily makes extra power as most people seem to think.
Another simple characteristic of engine dynamics that is frequently overlooked is the fact that an engines power is limited by the amount of fuel you can burn efficiently in the combustion chamber, and this is limited by the amount of oxygen that the engine can draw into its cylinders, which in turn is limited by the size and efficiency of the engine. Thankfully power output from Nitrous oxide injection is not much affected by these limitations, and consequently disproportionate increases can be achieved if so desired. The amount of oxygen that a Nitrous system can flow is only limited by the various holes in the system (i.e. bottle valve seat size, nitrous pipe bore size, solenoid seat size, etc.) and consequently must be restricted by the jet hole size to a level that when mixed with the correct amount of extra fuel from the system will allow a sensible amount of power to be generated by the engine.
A none nitrous engine produces a smooth power curve which is a function of rpm, because the faster the piston moves the better the cylinders fill and the more frequently the cylinders fire, however add a basic Nitrous system and it's a different story. Nitrous oxide is delivered to the engine at a constant rate (e.g. 2 lbs./min) therefore at low rpm (e.g. 2,000 rpm) each induction cycle will inhale 2 lbs. divided by 1,000 (the number of induction strokes), whilst at higher rpm (e.g. 10,000 rpm) each induction cycle will inhale 2 lbs. divided by 5,000 which is only 1/5th of the amount at 2,000 rpm. The effect this feature has on the power curve and the rider can be quite dramatic (depending on how much power is being added), the power curve suddenly becomes a vertical line rising by the amount of extra power being added by the Nitrous system, and only returns to the normal curve (although at an elevated level equal to the power increase) once it reaches the desired increased level. In actual use the rider / driver (if brave or insane enough to use this extra power in first gear and from low revs) will feel at least an INSTANT arm wrenching acceleration.
With this huge amount of power available I am frequently asked how much power can I have and will I need to do any mods to my engine to handle it all. My answer is that your stock engine will almost certainly handle more power than you the rider / driver can handle, but "What does decide the actual limit that the engine can produce" ? The first thing to keep in mind is that the engine consumes much bigger doses of nitrous per cycle at low rpm than at high rpm, therefore at low rpm where there is little inertia in the engine and the vehicle as a whole it is subjected to much greater forces which it finds difficult to get away from. The consequence of adding too much extra power to the engine at low rpm is that the piston cannot move away from the elevated pressure of combustion fast enough to keep the forces below acceptable limits, and something has to give, either the head gasket will blow, or the piston ring lands will crack, either way if the engine is not stopped immediately the piston will subsequently melt due to the lean out caused by the extra oxygen drawn into the combustion chamber through the leak.
This problem can be solved and the limit can be raised by simply retarding the timing, so that although higher pressures are being generated, they are less than the level which would cause failure because they start later in the piston cycle (i.e. less of the increased pressure occurs in or around tdc when the piston is at its most vulnerable). The same problem can be dealt with by reducing the compression ratio, as is the case with turbos etc., which in some ways would be generally beneficial (e.g. you could run normally on lower octane fuel and put your engine under less stress), plus it brings the added advantage of raising the power potential of the nitrous system before problems are encountered. Another solution is to reduce the amount of Nitrous injected at low rpm and increase it as rpm rises, in the way it can be done when a POWAMAX DIGITAL is fitted. Put all 3 solutions together and the potential power increases are astronomical! Why astronomical ? Well assuming peak combustion pressures are kept within safe limits by these 3 methods, the power output at the crank is only limited by how much inlet charge can be forced into the engine, and (forgotten by many) how much burnt charge can be forced out of the exhaust system.
With the inlet side being force fed by the nitrous pressure there is little need to make improvements there, but obviously the more nitrous and fuel that the engine is fed with, the more exhaust gases it produces, which if not effectively disposed of, will contaminate the next inlet charge thus reducing power output. Therefore instead of fitting bigger inlet valves and porting the inlet tracts, apply the same techniques to the exhaust components. With these limitations effectively dealt with the next simple aspect of N2O that needs to be accepted is that as long as you have a pair of working fuel and N2O solenoids delivering the goods to the engine, with a bottle of N2O delivering LIQUID to the system, then other vehicle components such as coils and leads etc., or head gaskets and valves etc. can be the only reason for failure to produce extra power. It's that simple ! Now many readers will be surprised to see ignition parts included in this statement, but the ignition system which includes coils and leads on most of today's cars and motorcycles are barely adequate to fire a standard inlet charge effectively, never mind a charge at the higher pressures caused by injecting N2O. However it is easy to understand that as the pre-combustion chamber pressures rise due to higher volumes of inlet charge, the spark strength required to jump a fixed plug gap is also going to rise. Therefore at some point on the pressure / power scale the available strength from a standard ignition is going to be inadequate, at which point the spark is suppressed until the pressure falls to the level when it can jump the plug gap, and consequently fires so retarded that no power increase is felt from the Nitrous. It should now be obvious that a special ignition system that can deal with the special requirements of N2O injection would be more beneficial to the reliability of the engine than improved engine components (in most instances).
An ignition that combines a stronger spark, with an ability to switch from one advance curve in standard mode to a retarded curve in Nitrous mode would solve most reliability problems in one unit.
To put these ideas into a practical application lets take a stock GSXR 1100 and a Golf GTI as examples and consider their original component designs and quality to determine their suitability for use with Nitrous;
I) combustion chamber layout (4 valve centre plug) perfect for use with Nitrous, very efficient air flow, and even flame spread,
ii) piston design and quality (high quality almost flat top design) very suitable for Nitrous, especially if forged,
iii) exhaust system very restrictive due to noise legislation and will limit the maximum power capability of a Nitrous system, and will reduce the level of any power output by a small amount, but it will still allow enough exhaust gases out to give the owner the buzz of a life time,
iv) ignition system, should handle enough Nitrous to give you the buzz level required, (in the region of 50 bhp), but this will almost certainly be the first limiting factor in your search for the ultimate power output. With the above in mind I would have no doubts that any good condition GSXR 1100 or Golf GTi in totally standard trim would safely handle a 50 bhp increase in power from a HIGHPOWER nitrous system (this does not mean that other Nitrous systems will reliably deliver the same increase).
If a high performance ignition system, a set of performance leads and coil/s were fitted plus a suitable free flowing exhaust, the power limit would double, but you would have great difficulty using it without traction problems, but add a POWAMAX DIGITAL and you have a more useable 100 bhp and the limit rises to 150 bhp or more, now that gives a BUZZZZZZ. Having proven that the extreme claims for Nitrous oxide injection are well founded, lets get back to reality, in the real world it's difficult to use such huge power increases, even on a drag strip, so the most important factor in making more power, is how well it can be used.
Instantaneous power of the type produced by a basic crude Nitrous systems, is the hardest form of power to use, slightly easier to use is the more progressive delivery but relatively uncontrollable power of a turbo, or radical normally aspirated engine, but by far the most useable power can be delivered by an electronically controlled and user programmable Nitrous system such as the HIGHPOWER POWAMAX DIGITAL unit. This unit gives the user total control over maximum and minimum power levels, also the time taken to build up from min to max power, plus precise control over when the system is initially activated to prevent aggravating wheel spin or wheelies.
After a few test runs to dial in the settings to optimum, it should be possible for a good rider / driver to produce the quickest possible acceleration times consistently, unlike the situation when trying to use other forms of power. This quantum leap in Nitrous technology is achieved by pulsing the control solenoids on and off, instead of keeping them open for the duration of the run. By altering the 'ON' to 'OFF' time ratio, known as pulse width modulation, the flow through the system can be made to increase linked to time, as is the case with the POWAMAX DIGITAL. At the minimum level the solenoids are more closed than open, whilst at the maximum setting the solenoids stop pulsing and switch full on. At present the build up of power is linear, but prototypes are in use which can deliver a user adjustable power curve which can be tailored to produce power more suited to an engines maximum potential capability, the end result being that an engine should be able to produce its maximum power capacity at ALL rpm levels, rather than over a narrow peak power band as is the case at present. Now in theory we have a perfect power source but in the real world things are never that simple, because as with all things of this earth (that I know of ) Nitrous oxide is affected by heat. For practical and convenient use, Nitrous oxide (which is a gas at room temperature and pressure) is squeezed into a small cylinder to fit to your bike or car. At normal room temperature approx. 100 times the cylinder volume of Nitrous gas is pumped into the cylinder and held in liquid form under vapour pressure at approx. 800 psi, effectively you are carrying 100 cylinders of Nitrous gas, when you have a full cylinder of Nitrous liquid. Back to the heat, on a cold day the gas contracts and the pressure can drop to zero under extreme conditions, whilst on a hot day or in a hot foreign country it can rise to 1500 psi.
Luckily the UK. is not normally subjected to such wild variations in temperature, otherwise the use of Nitrous oxide would be far more complicated than the simple systems we have now, also we are lucky in as much as Nitrous is tolerant of quite a wide fuel to oxygen ratio. In other words an engine will perform quite well even if the settings are not perfect, therefore if a system is set up correctly and safely (too rich) on a cool day, when it will only perform modestly compared with the heat of a summers day when it will perform impressively but still be safe. Now this is quite acceptable for road use, but for competition use especially in bracket classes you need more precision. This precision can be achieved in a number of ways, but the most accurate way is to make sure you maintain constant bottle pressure, regardless of the temperature of the day. Ideally set the fuel to nitrous ratio to be correct on the hottest day of the year, and then boost the cylinder pressure on days when the pressure is low, by either heating the cylinder up, or pumping the cylinder up with regulated nitrogen. Nitrogen is the better method, as it is more accurate, quicker and produces more constant pressures. If you cannot control the cylinder pressure, then the next best method is to monitor cylinder pressure and on cold days increase the nitrous jet size by the percentage of pressure loss from optimum, and on hot days reduce the nitrous jet size by the appropriate percentage.
If you just want to optimise the use of the amount of Nitrous you are burning on a given run, then a fuel pressure regulator can be used to reduce or increase the amount of extra fuel being delivered. Whichever method you use it is vitally important that accurate records are kept and that only small changes are made at any one time. Once an adjustment has been made there are 4 methods of checking the settings,
I) hold the engine at 3,000rpm in neutral and activate the nitrous system (this method is only safe on HIGHPOWER SYSTEMS), and assess the results,
ii) measure the power output increase on a dyno and compare it with the systems power rating,
iii) use a CO meter,
iv) inspect the spark plugs after a run for signs of mixture readings.
So now we have a correct fuel to Nitrous ratio an uprated ignition system with timing retard and everything seems to be fine until you put the engine under load and for some reason the results are less than impressive, what now? Well the usual answer is the clutch plates, because standard clutches are designed with a minimum of excess capacity, that is to say they are only just up to the job of handling the standard power. Here is a cheap and simple cure for motorcycle clutch slip, the reason the clutch cannot handle any more power is that the steel plates are manufactured by stamping them out of sheet metal, and are warped slightly from new, (so don't fit some new ones) take them to an engineering company and have them surface ground by the minimum amount that produces an even surface finish across the whole plate (as Yamaha are doing as standard now), fit a packer behind each clutch spring just thick enough to allow full clutch disengagement and there you have it, a clutch that should handle approx. 30% more power than before and still be light enough to operate without snapping the bones in your wrist. With these limiting factors removed you are now free to experience the power of your Nitrous system in full.
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